Same tests — just worded differently
This only changes how each result is explained. Your scores never change. Choose Normal for plain, everyday wording that tells you what a result means. Choose Advanced to also see the technical terms — the exact settings and methods behind each check — if you know the jargon.
Settings
Appearance
Auto follows your device. Changes preview instantly.
What matters most to you?
Tunes which problems we surface first. Same tests either way -- you can change this anytime.
The speed you pay for (optional)
We will grade your speed against your plan, so you can see if you are getting your money's worth.
Speed units
How your speed numbers are shown. MB/s is what download managers report; Kbps suits slow connections.
Speed test mode
Multi-stream opens several connections to find your line's top capacity (what you pay for). Single-stream uses one connection -- closer to everyday use like a single download or a game.
Reading level
Normal explains results in plain words; Advanced adds the technical terms. Same tests either way.
Time format
How the time is shown on your report card stamp.
whoamionline Pro
Everything on WhoAmI is free today -- including the Evidence Pack and the Watch connection monitor -- with no account ever required. A future Pro plan may add extras like a developer API and always-on cloud alerts, to help keep the core free and ad-light; it will never take away what is here now.
A plain-English check-up across your speed, privacy, and browser fingerprint.
Your connection & privacy report
IP…
Location…
ISP…
ASN…
Speed test
Color key Green — healthy / above target Blue — normal / neutral info Amber — below target, worth a look Red — leak or serious problem Grey — not run yet
—
Download
Upload
vs. your area—
Download
010002000
Upload
010002000
Test server
Your download and upload speed right now.
Sustained multi-stream throughput vs. Cloudflare edge (6x parallel, 6s window).
What is this?
Speed test measures the maximum sustained throughput between your device and Cloudflare's nearest data center. It opens six parallel connections and downloads for six seconds, then does the same in reverse for upload. This mirrors how modern apps like Netflix, Zoom, and file uploads actually use your connection — not a single stream, but many at once.
So what?
Your ISP sells you a speed like "1 Gbps." The number you see here is what actually arrives at your Wi-Fi card. If you're paying for gigabit and seeing 200 Mbps, something between the router and your device is bottlenecked — usually old Wi-Fi hardware, a bad cable, or interference. For streaming: 25 Mbps down is comfortable 4K, 5 Mbps handles 1080p. For upload: 10 Mbps is fine for HD Zoom calls; below 3 Mbps you'll start freezing on video meetings.
Now what?
Your speeds match or exceed what a modern home connection should deliver. Nothing to fix right now. Two habits worth building: (1) run this test wired every few months so you notice degradation before it becomes annoying. (2) if you upgrade your ISP plan and the new speed does not show up here, the bottleneck is between the modem and your device -- your router, your Wi-Fi hardware, or an aging Ethernet cable is the likely culprit, not the plan.
Your speed is well below what most modern connections deliver and low enough that 4K streaming, cloud backups, and large video calls will suffer. (1) Plug directly into the router with Ethernet and re-test -- if wired is much faster, Wi-Fi is the bottleneck (bad channel, distance, old hardware). (2) If wired is also slow, reboot the modem and check for firmware updates on the router. (3) If both still show slow, call your ISP with these numbers and ask them to run a line test on your modem -- specifically request the SNR margin and signal-to-noise readings. Those two numbers reveal a bad drop cable outside your house 90 percent of the time.
Your speeds are workable for most activities (streaming HD, video calls, everyday browsing) but well below what a modern connection can deliver. Two easy checks: (1) plug directly into the router with an Ethernet cable and re-test -- if it jumps significantly, your Wi-Fi is the ceiling (upgrade to a Wi-Fi 6/6E router or add a mesh node). (2) check the speed your ISP is actually selling you vs. what you are paying for -- many people are on a lower tier than they think.
If your speed is far below your plan: (1) plug directly into the router with an Ethernet cable and re-test — if it jumps, your Wi-Fi is the bottleneck (upgrade to a Wi-Fi 6 or 6E router, or add a mesh node). (2) If wired is also slow, check your router's admin page for firmware updates. (3) If both still show slow, call your ISP with these numbers ready and say: "I'm getting X Mbps on a wired connection to your speed test. My plan is Y Mbps. Please run a line test." Ask specifically about SNR margin and signal-to-noise levels on your modem — those are the two metrics that reveal a bad line.
Ping Matrix: Latency (Unloaded)
Color key Green — healthy / above target Blue — normal / neutral info Amber — below target, worth a look Red — leak or serious problem Grey — not run yet
—
How fast you reach major servers when your connection is idle.
RTT to 4 global anycast endpoints in ms; best value shown.
Bufferbloat: Latency (Loaded)
Color key Green — healthy / above target Blue — normal / neutral info Amber — below target, worth a look Red — leak or serious problem Grey — not run yet
—
How much your ping worsens under heavy download. Graded A-F.
Idle vs. loaded RTT delta, graded A-F per DSLReports scale.
Jitter
Color key Green — healthy / above target Blue — normal / neutral info Amber — below target, worth a look Red — leak or serious problem Grey — not run yet
—
How steady your ping is (lower is smoother).
Mean absolute deviation over 12 samples in ms.
Packet Loss
Color key Green — healthy / above target Blue — normal / neutral info Amber — below target, worth a look Red — leak or serious problem Grey — not run yet
—
How many packets get dropped between you and the internet. 0% is ideal.
Percentage of probes dropped over N=20 fetches.
Your Report Card
Report Card: Speed & Privacy
◎whoamionline
awarded to this connection
0Grade ·
Running your check-up. Your grade and each section fill in as the tests finish.
Creates an anonymous link with your letter grades only. No speeds, IP, or device details are saved.
Section-by-section breakdown
What scored well, what needs attention, and how to fix it.
Speed—
Speed test—
If your speed is far below your plan: (1) plug directly into the router with an Ethernet cable and re-test — if it jumps, your Wi-Fi is the bottleneck (upgrade to a Wi-Fi 6 or 6E router, or add a mesh node). (2) If wired is also slow, check your router's admin page for firmware updates. (3) If both still show slow, call your ISP with these numbers ready and say: "I'm getting X Mbps on a wired connection to your speed test. My plan is Y Mbps. Please run a line test." Ask specifically about SNR margin and signal-to-noise levels on your modem — those are the two metrics that reveal a bad line.
Your speed is well below what most modern connections deliver and low enough that 4K streaming, cloud backups, and large video calls will suffer. (1) Plug directly into the router with Ethernet and re-test -- if wired is much faster, Wi-Fi is the bottleneck (bad channel, distance, old hardware). (2) If wired is also slow, reboot the modem and check for firmware updates on the router. (3) If both still show slow, call your ISP with these numbers and ask them to run a line test on your modem -- specifically request the SNR margin and signal-to-noise readings. Those two numbers reveal a bad drop cable outside your house 90 percent of the time.
Scored well — no action needed.
If your speed is far below your plan: (1) plug directly into the router with an Ethernet cable and re-test — if it jumps, your Wi-Fi is the bottleneck (upgrade to a Wi-Fi 6 or 6E router, or add a mesh node). (2) If wired is also slow, check your router's admin page for firmware updates. (3) If both still show slow, call your ISP with these numbers ready and say: "I'm getting X Mbps on a wired connection to your speed test. My plan is Y Mbps. Please run a line test." Ask specifically about SNR margin and signal-to-noise levels on your modem — those are the two metrics that reveal a bad line.
Ping Matrix: Latency (Unloaded)—
If everything is slow: (1) test again on a wired connection to eliminate Wi-Fi. (2) reboot the modem — cable and DSL modems accumulate errors over months. (3) If still slow, run "tracert 1.1.1.1" from Command Prompt and screenshot the results for your ISP. If only one endpoint is slow: that's a peering dispute your ISP can escalate (ask them to "check the route to Google's AS15169" or similar). If you're a gamer: latency matters more than bandwidth — a 100/100 Mbps fiber connection at 5ms ping will beat 1000/1000 cable at 25ms every time.
Latency above 150ms makes every interactive app feel sluggish. Two possibilities: (1) your local connection has an issue -- test wired to rule out Wi-Fi, reboot the modem, and if the problem persists, run "tracert 1.1.1.1" from Command Prompt and screenshot for your ISP. (2) your ISP has a routing/peering problem -- if only ONE of the four test endpoints is slow, that is a peering dispute; ask your ISP to check the route to that specific provider (e.g. "check the route to Google's AS15169"). Gamers: latency matters more than bandwidth. A 100/100 Mbps fiber connection at 5ms will beat 1000/1000 cable at 25ms every single time.
Scored well — no action needed.
If everything is slow: (1) test again on a wired connection to eliminate Wi-Fi. (2) reboot the modem — cable and DSL modems accumulate errors over months. (3) If still slow, run "tracert 1.1.1.1" from Command Prompt and screenshot the results for your ISP. If only one endpoint is slow: that's a peering dispute your ISP can escalate (ask them to "check the route to Google's AS15169" or similar). If you're a gamer: latency matters more than bandwidth — a 100/100 Mbps fiber connection at 5ms ping will beat 1000/1000 cable at 25ms every time.
Bufferbloat: Latency (Loaded)—
Grade F is severe bufferbloat -- interactive apps (video calls, gaming, remote desktop) will feel broken any time someone in the house streams or uploads. The fix takes an afternoon: (1) log into your router and look for Smart Queue Management (SQM), FQ_CoDel, or Adaptive QoS -- if it is there, enable it and set both download and upload to 90 percent of your ISP speed. (2) If your router does not have SQM, buy any router that runs OpenWrt or the ASUS RT-AX86U (~$100), put it in bridge mode behind your ISP router, and enable SQM there. (3) Do NOT rely on the router's "Gaming Mode" or "Media Priority" -- those are marketing gimmicks and often make bufferbloat worse.
Grade C or D means your router is buffering more than it should but is still mostly usable. Enable Smart Queue Management (SQM) or Adaptive QoS on your router if it supports it -- set your download and upload limits to about 90 percent of what your ISP delivers. If your router does not offer this, you have a few weekends before it becomes a problem; start shopping for a router that runs OpenWrt or has native SQM (Ubiquiti, MikroTik, ASUS Adaptive QoS).
Scored well — no action needed.
The fix is a router that supports Smart Queue Management (SQM) or FQ_CoDel: (1) If you have a modern router (Ubiquiti, MikroTik, ASUS with Adaptive QoS, Google Nest Wifi Pro, eero Pro), enable "Adaptive QoS" or "SQM" in settings — set your download and upload to about 90% of what your ISP delivers. (2) If your ISP-provided router doesn't support it, put a $100 router in bridge mode behind it (buy anything running OpenWrt or the ASUS RT-AX86U). (3) Do NOT enable the router's "Gaming" or "Media" QoS mode — those are marketing gimmicks and often make bufferbloat worse.
Jitter—
(1) Move closer to your Wi-Fi router or switch to 5 GHz — 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi has huge jitter because it competes with microwaves, baby monitors, and every neighbor's network. (2) If wired, check the physical cable — a bad Cat 5 cable or a bent RJ-45 connector produces retransmissions that show up as jitter. (3) Ask your ISP to check for "line errors" and "CRC errors" on your modem — those are the smoking gun for a bad drop cable or corroded connection outside your house.
Jitter above 30ms is the #1 cause of "my internet is fast but Zoom sucks." Fix in order: (1) Move closer to your Wi-Fi router, or switch to 5 GHz -- 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi competes with microwaves, baby monitors, and every neighbor's network. (2) If wired, replace the Ethernet cable and try a different port on the router -- a single bad cable or port can produce jitter on that link only. (3) Ask your ISP to check for "line errors" or "CRC errors" on your modem -- those are the smoking gun for a bad drop cable or corroded connection outside your house, and ISPs will only investigate if you ask by name.
Scored well — no action needed.
(1) Move closer to your Wi-Fi router or switch to 5 GHz — 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi has huge jitter because it competes with microwaves, baby monitors, and every neighbor's network. (2) If wired, check the physical cable — a bad Cat 5 cable or a bent RJ-45 connector produces retransmissions that show up as jitter. (3) Ask your ISP to check for "line errors" and "CRC errors" on your modem — those are the smoking gun for a bad drop cable or corroded connection outside your house.
Packet Loss—
Above 15 percent loss, nothing works reliably -- this is a broken connection, not a slow one. Test wired to confirm, then call the ISP and demand a technician dispatch. Reference this exact packet loss number when you call: it is the fastest way to skip past the "have you tried rebooting?" script. If they refuse a truck roll, ask them to open a "line test with SNR readings" ticket -- that phrase gets you routed to a technician who actually understands the physical plant.
5-15 percent loss will break voice calls and real-time games. Test wired to rule out Wi-Fi, reboot the modem, and if it persists, call the ISP: "I have persistent packet loss on a wired connection. Please dispatch a technician to check my drop cable and modem signal levels." Do NOT accept "it is your equipment" without a line test -- cable ISPs in particular love to blame the customer for what is almost always corrosion at the tap or a bad amplifier on the pole.
Scored well — no action needed.
Any packet loss above 1% needs investigation: (1) test wired to rule out Wi-Fi. (2) if wired shows loss, reboot the modem and re-test after 5 minutes. (3) if it persists, call your ISP and say: "I have persistent packet loss on wired connections. Please dispatch a technician to check my drop cable and modem signal levels." Do NOT let them tell you it's your equipment without checking the line first — cable ISPs in particular love to blame the customer for what is almost always corrosion at the tap or a bad amplifier on the pole.
Privacy—
DNS Leak—
This card flagged a mismatch. To fix: (1) In your VPN client, look for a setting called "Use VPN DNS" or "Block IPv6 / DNS outside tunnel" and turn it on. (2) In your browser, enable Secure DNS (DoH) pointed at a resolver you trust -- Cloudflare 1.1.1.1, Quad9 9.9.9.9, or your VPN provider's resolver. (3) Re-run this test to confirm the fix. (4) If you are on a corporate or campus network you cannot control, assume DNS is being logged and use Tor Browser for anything sensitive rather than fighting the network.
If this card flags a mismatch: adjust your VPN client to force DNS through the tunnel, enable Secure DNS in your browser, and re-run this test.
Scored well — no action needed.
If this card flags a mismatch: adjust your VPN client to force DNS through the tunnel, enable Secure DNS in your browser, and re-run this test.
WebRTC Leak—
An extra IP was found. Fix by browser: (a) Brave -- Settings > Shields > WebRTC IP handling policy > "Disable Non-Proxied UDP". (b) Firefox -- about:config, set media.peerconnection.enabled to false (this will break Meet/Discord in-browser; use the desktop apps instead). (c) Chrome/Edge -- install the "WebRTC Network Limiter" extension from Google and set it to "Use my proxy server". (d) Safari on iOS/macOS -- already only exposes the public interface, no action needed. Re-run this test after applying the fix and confirm the extra IP disappears.
If an extra IP is exposed, adjust your browser's WebRTC settings to stop it from bypassing your VPN.
Scored well — no action needed.
If an extra IP is exposed, adjust your browser's WebRTC settings to stop it from bypassing your VPN.
VPN / Proxy Signal—
If you WANT to look residential, use split-tunneling or a residential-proxy service. If you WANT to look private, pick a no-logs-audited VPN and pair with Tor Browser for the highest-risk sessions.
If you WANT to look residential, use split-tunneling or a residential-proxy service. If you WANT to look private, pick a no-logs-audited VPN and pair with Tor Browser for the highest-risk sessions.
Scored well — no action needed.
If you WANT to look residential, use split-tunneling or a residential-proxy service. If you WANT to look private, pick a no-logs-audited VPN and pair with Tor Browser for the highest-risk sessions.
IPv6 Reachability—
IPv4-only is common on US home connections. Enable IPv6 in your router or ask your ISP if you want it.
IPv4-only is common on US home connections. Enable IPv6 in your router or ask your ISP if you want it.
Scored well — no action needed.
IPv4-only is common on US home connections. Enable IPv6 in your router or ask your ISP if you want it.
Timezone Mismatch—
If this flags and you are not on a VPN, your OS clock is stuck on an old zone -- fix it in system settings. If you are on a VPN and want consistency, either match your OS timezone to the VPN exit or use a per-site timezone-spoofer extension.
There is a real mismatch: your browser says one timezone, your IP suggests another. If you are NOT using a VPN, your OS clock is probably stuck on an old timezone -- go to system Date & Time settings and either enable "Set timezone automatically" or set it to your actual location. If you ARE using a VPN and you want to look consistent, either (a) set your OS timezone to match the VPN exit country, or (b) install a browser extension like Chameleon (Firefox) that overrides the JS Intl API. Do NOT change your OS timezone just for privacy -- it will make every calendar event and every timestamp in your logs wrong. Note: if you legitimately travel and your OS auto-updates timezone while your VPN stays pinned to home, this mismatch is expected and safe to ignore.
Scored well — no action needed.
If this flags and you are not on a VPN, your OS clock is stuck on an old zone -- fix it in system settings. If you are on a VPN and want consistency, either match your OS timezone to the VPN exit or use a per-site timezone-spoofer extension.
Multimedia—
Video Codecs—
If you only see H.264, update your browser and operating system -- AV1 and HEVC support often arrive with OS and GPU-driver updates. On desktop, current Chrome, Edge, and Firefox all decode AV1 and VP9.
Your browser plays only older codecs, so streaming may be capped at lower resolutions and use more data. Update your browser and OS, or try a current Chromium-based browser.
Scored well — no action needed.
If you only see H.264, update your browser and operating system -- AV1 and HEVC support often arrive with OS and GPU-driver updates. On desktop, current Chrome, Edge, and Firefox all decode AV1 and VP9.
Protected Playback (DRM)—
If none is detected and premium video will not play, update your browser; on Linux install the Widevine component (most Chromium browsers prompt for it). For 4K, Edge with PlayReady or Safari with FairPlay is usually required.
No DRM system was found, so Netflix, Disney+ and similar may not play or only in low resolution. Update your browser or install the Widevine component.
Scored well — no action needed.
If none is detected and premium video will not play, update your browser; on Linux install the Widevine component (most Chromium browsers prompt for it). For 4K, Edge with PlayReady or Safari with FairPlay is usually required.
Autoplay Policy—
To tame autoplay: in Chrome/Edge use Site Settings, then Additional content settings, then Sound; in Firefox use Settings, Privacy and Security, Permissions, Autoplay, and set it to Block Audio and Video.
To tame autoplay: in Chrome/Edge use Site Settings, then Additional content settings, then Sound; in Firefox use Settings, Privacy and Security, Permissions, Autoplay, and set it to Block Audio and Video.
Scored well — no action needed.
To tame autoplay: in Chrome/Edge use Site Settings, then Additional content settings, then Sound; in Firefox use Settings, Privacy and Security, Permissions, Autoplay, and set it to Block Audio and Video.
Fingerprint—
Canvas Fingerprint—
Your canvas fingerprint is stable and readable. That is the default for Chrome, Edge, Opera, Vivaldi, and Safari -- they all return the same pixel data every time. Fix it in order of aggressiveness: (1) Switch to Brave -- Shields randomizes the canvas per-session by default, no config needed. (2) Switch to Firefox and set privacy.resistFingerprinting=true in about:config -- this randomizes canvas plus a dozen other signals. (3) For maximum anonymity switch to Tor Browser, which does the same as Firefox RFP but also routes traffic through Tor. AVOID Safari: it does not randomize the canvas and Apple has resisted implementing this protection.
Your canvas produced a value but it may be partially protected. If you are on Firefox without RFP, or Brave with Shields down for this site, you are exposing the raw hash. Turn Shields back on, or enable privacy.resistFingerprinting, then re-run.
Scored well — no action needed.
If your canvas hash is stable, switch to Brave (Shields up) or Firefox with privacy.resistFingerprinting=true. For anonymous sessions use Tor Browser.
WebGL Renderer—
Your real GPU model was exposed. To fix: (1) Brave with Shields up spoofs the renderer to a generic value automatically -- easiest option. (2) Firefox: set webgl.disabled=true in about:config to block WebGL entirely, OR set privacy.resistFingerprinting=true which spoofs the renderer. (3) Tor Browser blocks WebGL by default. Blocking WebGL will break 3D sites and some map/game features -- if that matters, use Brave which spoofs rather than blocks. AVOID Chrome, Edge, Safari, Opera, Vivaldi: none of them hide the renderer without extensions.
WebGL is partially exposed. You may be on a browser that shows the renderer but hides some other WebGL parameters. For full protection switch to Brave (Shields up) or Firefox with RFP.
Scored well — no action needed.
To hide your GPU model, switch to Brave with Shields up, or enable privacy.resistFingerprinting in Firefox.
Audio Fingerprint—
Your audio fingerprint is stable. To fix: (1) Brave with Shields up randomizes the audio signal per-session -- the easiest fix. (2) Firefox with privacy.resistFingerprinting=true does the same. (3) Tor Browser blocks the Web Audio API entirely. Chrome, Edge, Opera, Vivaldi, and Safari do not offer any built-in protection against audio fingerprinting -- you would need an extension like CanvasBlocker, which also handles audio, but switching browsers is more reliable.
The audio API returned a value that may be partially protected. Turn Brave Shields on for this site, or enable Firefox RFP, and re-run.
Scored well — no action needed.
To block audio fingerprinting, use Brave with Shields up, Firefox with RFP enabled, or Tor Browser.
Installed Fonts—
Your full font list was probed. That is Chrome, Edge, Opera, Vivaldi, and Safari all reveal this. To fix: (1) Tor Browser bundles its own fixed set of fonts and blocks probing, so every Tor user reports the same list -- strongest protection. (2) Brave with Shields set to Aggressive blocks font enumeration. (3) Firefox with privacy.resistFingerprinting=true restricts the font list to a small standard set. AVOID Chrome and Safari: neither offers a way to restrict font probing without extensions.
A partial font list was detected. You may be on Brave with Shields set to Standard rather than Aggressive, or Firefox without RFP. Raise your privacy settings and re-run.
Scored well — no action needed.
To hide your font list, use Tor Browser, Brave with Shields on Aggressive, or Firefox with privacy.resistFingerprinting=true.
Device—
Screen & Display—
If fingerprint resistance matters, switch to Brave, LibreWolf, or Tor Browser. Chrome, Edge, and Safari expose these values with no way to hide them.
If fingerprint resistance matters, switch to Brave, LibreWolf, or Tor Browser. Chrome, Edge, and Safari expose these values with no way to hide them.
Scored well — no action needed.
If fingerprint resistance matters, switch to Brave, LibreWolf, or Tor Browser. Chrome, Edge, and Safari expose these values with no way to hide them.
CPU / Memory / Battery—
This card is red because your browser exposed the full trio: cores + memory + battery. That is Chrome, Edge, Opera, or Vivaldi in a default configuration. To fix it in order of aggressiveness: (1) Switch to Brave -- one click, it misreports cores as 8 and rounds memory, and blocks Battery entirely with Shields up. (2) Switch to Firefox -- Battery is gone entirely, and deviceMemory is not implemented, so two of the three go away for free. (3) Stay on Chrome/Edge but install "Chameleon" or "CanvasBlocker" to spoof the values -- less reliable than switching. AVOID Safari as a "privacy" alternative: it exposes similar hardware hints and does not let you turn them off.
Your browser exposes some but not all of these values -- typically because you are on Firefox or Safari, which implement CPU cores but not memory or battery. Firefox is a solid choice as-is; if you want to hide cores too, set privacy.resistFingerprinting to true in about:config (it will clamp hardwareConcurrency to 2). Safari users: consider Brave or Firefox for stronger protection -- Safari has no equivalent setting.
Scored well — no action needed.
If cores + memory + battery are all exposed, switch to Brave or Firefox. Chrome and Edge have no built-in way to hide these.
Plugins & MIME—
Three or more non-standard plugin entries were found -- this is a strong, stable fingerprint. Do a full extension audit: disable every non-essential extension in chrome://extensions or about:addons, then re-run this test. For anonymous browsing sessions, use a browser profile with ZERO extensions installed (Tor Browser does exactly this by design). If the non-standard entries survive with no extensions, they may be OS-level (Windows PDF handler, corporate policy) -- consider switching to Firefox where fewer OS-level plugins get exposed.
One or two non-standard entries showed up. That is usually a browser extension injecting itself into navigator.plugins. Audit your extensions: open chrome://extensions or about:addons, disable everything you do not actively use, and re-run this test. If the non-standard entries persist, note their names -- searching for the exact name usually reveals which extension is responsible. Consider whether the privacy value of that extension outweighs the fingerprint it adds.
Scored well — no action needed.
If non-standard plugins show up, audit your browser extensions and disable everything you do not actively use. For anonymous sessions, use a browser profile with no extensions or Tor Browser.
WhoAmI Online is a free set of network and privacy tools that show you, in plain English, exactly what your internet connection and your browser reveal about you -- and, when something is wrong, what to do about it. Every result is graded like a report card and paired with a specific, step-by-step fix, not a wall of jargon.
The speed test measures real download, upload, latency, jitter and packet loss against Cloudflare's global network, the same way streaming and video-call traffic actually behaves. The privacy and fingerprint checks show whether your IP, DNS, WebRTC, timezone, canvas, WebGL, fonts and TLS handshake are quietly giving you away to trackers. Each one links to an in-depth guide that explains the measurement and walks you through the fix.
✓No ads interrupt the test while it runs
✓No trackers follow you and nothing fingerprints you
✓Your results stay in your browser -- we never upload or sell them
✓No account, no sign-up, no email required
How WhoAmI is different
Most speed tests give you three numbers and move on. WhoAmI treats a slow or leaky connection like a problem to be diagnosed and fixed.
What you get
A typical speed test
WhoAmI Online
Download, upload and ping
✓
✓
Jitter, packet loss and bufferbloat
–
✓
A plain-English fix for every result
–
✓
Privacy and browser-fingerprint checks
–
✓
Tracks your connection over time
–
✓
No ads during the test, no data sold
–
✓
Works with no account or download
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✓
Guides & tutorials
Every test on the site has a full written guide -- what it measures, why it matters, and how to fix it. Read the story, then run the scan.
This site runs its tests in your browser and does not store your results. We use Google Analytics, with IP anonymization and advertising features off, to count visits and see which fixes people read. No ads are served today; if that changes, this notice will change first.Tests run in your browser; we don't store your results. We use privacy-first Google Analytics (anonymized, ad features off). No ads today.Learn more